I fixed every thing that showed as a problem in the first print Tensioner for Y belt, filament reel etc.
Reel made from hardboard with £1 shop paint brush stand as the core covered in thick card 2 skate bearings 8mm threaded rod and two 22mm pipe clips drew around garden sieve to get sides. Tensioner two fix-it plastic blocks 2 springs 2 long 4mm screws 2 big washers 4 small washers 1 shorter 4mm screws 5 4mm nuts. 1 small bearing with 4mm hole.
I tried desperate measures to stop warping bigger rafts warming the print bed plate up on the Potbelly stove before printing. So alas I must now find a way of using uninsulated Ni-chrome to heat the bed the other heated beds I made are all for Huxley / Mini Mendel so are too small.
As recomended by Kulitorum this is a RepRap Mendel Fan Mount from Thingyverse
The only explanation I can think of for the reasonable print of the Two spoons print is it has such a large overhang i.e. it almost floats over the raft. That was why it did not warp.. just pure luck I saw it on the pipe when I was looking for my next test thing to try..
Next jobs Heated bed from what I have to hand without changing the structure of the existing almost working printer. Modifying the code to include a heated bed or using a Pid controller with separate PSU... making a case to Suround the printer in case Midge opens the door to the cold out side. to prevent this I have waited till she is busy painting in the conservatory.
5 comments:
Maybe you can draw some inspiration from a heated build platform I once made for my MakerBot. It uses uninsulated resistor wire, lots of kapton tape and some copper plated epoxy boards.
o wait http://repstrapbertha.blogspot.com/2010/02/rep-strap-minimicro-mendel-heated-bed.html
sorry :)
Hi BodgeIt,
If that is ABS it won't stick well to cold masking tape.
I haven't tried it myself but I believe it sticks to acrylic and double sided carpet tape.
I used Foamex myself and that works very well but you need the first layer of the raft and the first layer of the object at lower temperatures than the rest otherwise it welds on permanently.
bjijls
The 230 x 230 build platform size & Ni-chrome wire resistance don't match. Over an hour or more trying different patterns on paper to heat the whole area evenly. Tiring to avoid a central join like Adrian>Adrian has in the WIKI(don't have bootlace ferrules)
As I want to avoid making a nice level surface difficult to level.
Hi Nophead
Great I have 4mm 962 perspex sheet & carpet tape will give that a try not seen foamex yet other than I just Googled it.
Blue masking/painters tape
After deciding it was difficult to make a heated bed.. I watched Adrian's Video and bought the 2090 blue tape. Where its not warped its stuck so good the tape comes off the Aluminum sheet really surprising the warping only starts after the second layer of the object, still learning to use the raft setting parameters on RepSnapper. I've had weld permanently ;-(
I just need to find a thin way to join Ni-chrome without high temp solder or bootlace ferules.
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